Chambolle Musigny, in the Côte de Nuits, is still without question the symbol of Burgundy’s most elegant red wine. Even if no one really knows why . . .

“In the opinion of many people, this commune [Chambolle Musigny] produces the most delicate wines in the Côte de Nuits”, wrote Dr. Lavalle in 1855 in his reference work, Histoire et Statistiques de la vigne et des grands vins de la Côte d’Or. A century and a half later, this is still the opinion of many people. The commune’s geology, according to Lavalle, was different from the neighboring village to the north, Morey. Lighter soil, rarer clay subsoil. Clay and limestone are in permanent balance in Burgundy’s vineyards: the former contributing power to the wines (both red and white), and the latter, finesse. So is Chambolle Musigny’s vineyard “dominated” by limestone? Some insist that soil analyses carried out often show high active limestone levels. Yet others affirm that no specific limestone content predominates in Chambolle – at least not more than in other vineyards. But are the Chambolles in fact as fine as is believed? You’re not likely to find anyone who will tell you the opposite.

A large part of the vineyard, above all to the south of and in the center of the village, produces wines that are outstanding for their finesse and complexity: the premiers crus Les Charmes, Les Feusselottes, Combottes, Les Plantes, Les Hauts-Doix, Les Amoureuses (the last just this side of a grand cru) and of course the incomparable Musigny grand cru, definitely ranking among Burgundy’s greatest terroirs.

The northern part of the village gives somewhat different wines. With the premiers crus Les Cras, Les Fuées, and even more Les Sentiers, Les Baudes, Les Lavrottes – in fact all the premiers crus located below the Bonnes-Mares grand cru (13.5 hectares, and 1.5 in Morey) – there’s more strength and muscle, sometimes even with strong tannins if the vintage dictates. Here we’re far from the silkiness of Musigny, to the point of having a hard time believing that Bonnes-Mares and Musigny are in fact produced in the same village. Interesting to note that Bonnes-Mares takes on finesse as it approaches Chambolle, to the south, again for geological reasons (heavier red clay soil to the north, more white marl and limestone to the south).

The Chambolle village appellation covers two zones. To the west of the premier cru and grand cru area, the wines have great finesse. To the east of (and below) this area, the wines take on more substance while losing some finesse. But many cuvees are blends of the different production areas, giving a style often marked by the finesse of the village Chambolles.

In the end, Chambolle’s reputation for finesse and elegance, with the exception perhaps of the northern part of the vineyard, likely has several explanations. Geology, yes, though most analyses still have some way to go in explaining the connection between the nature of the soil and geology, and the characteristics of the wines they produce.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Combottes 2002, Domaine Henri Felettig

The Felettig winery began in 1965 when Henri’s parents gave him 2 hectares (5 acres). Henri’s two children, Christine and Gilbert formed a corporation in 1993 and took over the winery. Since then they have been able to add vineyards from Gevrey Chambertin, Vosne Romanée, Nuits St Georges and the Hautes Côtes regions above the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune for a total today of 10 hectares (25 acres). Their next goal is to try and find part of a grand cru field to buy!

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 2001, Domaine Amiot Servelle

Christian Amiot is lucky enough to make wines from vineyards located on the best premier crus of Chambolle Musigny. He is precise and has helped the estate’s style evolve positively over the last 10 years.

Chambolle Musigny 2001, Domaine Thierry Mortet

This estate was created in 1992, when Thierry’s father retired and his estate was divided between his two sons. The winery is made up of 7 hectares (17.5 acres) ranging from Gevrey Chambertin to Chambolle Musigny. “I’m looking to maintain the freshness of fruit in my wines” says Thierry. All the while maintaining classic winemaking techniques: pre-fermentation maceration for 3 or 4 days, total fermentation time of 2 weeks. The grapes are harvested by hand, are sorted and are 100% de-stemmed. The result is expressive, full-bodied, generous, pure wines.

Chambolle Musigny 2001, Domaine Laurent Roumier

Laurent Roumier started his estate in 1991 by working vines and making wine under contract in a vineyard rental system (fermage). He now runs an estate of 4.1 hectares (10.25 acres) from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de Vougeot and Bonnes Mares.